Decorating a mountain cabin: the walls are the hard part

The Trysil piece in an oak frame on a pale wall, lit from the side so the terrain casts shadows

A mountain cabin nearly always has three things in common: a lot of wood, a low ceiling and too little light. All three make the walls harder than the ones at home.

It is also why so many cabins end up with the same solution: something with reindeer on it, an old piste map in a wooden frame, and a picture somebody bought in the village. You can do better without spending more.

Problem one: wood against wood

On a pine-panelled wall everything already shares the same colour temperature. A wooden frame with a warm image inside it then disappears into the wall, not because it is ugly but because there is no contrast left.

The fix is to break it. A dark frame, a dark background or a clearly pale field. Anything that creates an edge against the panelling works. More on that choice in the article on oak versus black frames.

Another trick is to let the direction of the panelling work for you. Vertical boards pull the room upwards, so the wall can take one large piece placed high. Horizontal boards pull sideways, and then a row of several smaller pieces sits better than one big one.

Problem two: the light

Cabin windows are often small, and for half the season it is dark while you are awake. That means you mostly see the walls in lamplight rather than daylight.

That is actually an advantage if you use it. Lamplight is directional, and directional light is exactly what a relief needs in order to cast shadows. A simple spot or an angled wall lamp from the side does more for a three-dimensional piece than a more expensive piece would. We have written more about that in the guide to hanging and lighting.

What you should avoid is putting anything glossy on a wall opposite a window. You get a mirror with a view of your own lamps.

Problem three: ceiling height

Many cabins have sloping ceilings or a ceiling around 2.3 metres. The rule about a centre at 145 centimetres still applies, but the margin above is small, and a tall piece quickly starts to feel cramped.

Wide, low formats sit better under a low ceiling. The same goes for several smaller pieces in a horizontal row, which give width without height. Under a sloping ceiling the piece should follow the room, not the roof: keep it vertical and place it where the wall is at its highest.

Hanging into panelling

Sawn pine panelling does not hold much on its own, especially not in the tongue and groove. Screw into a stud behind it if you can locate one, otherwise into the middle of a board rather than the joint. A piece in this format is light, but cabins move with damp and temperature over a year, and a screw in the joint holds worse in March than it did in August.

What should hang there

The only rule that matters: it should be about the place you are actually in.

A generic mountain photograph could just as easily hang in a cabin in Austria. A relief of the exact mountain you can see through the window is something else, and it doubles as a conversation starter every time somebody new walks in - people go straight up to it and look for their own run or their own trail.

We have Swedish and Norwegian mountains under mountain pieces. If the cabin sits somewhere other than one of our subjects, you can have the window made yourself in FRMD by You.